Temperature is maintained using three Finnex 500-watt titanium heaters. Each heater is connected to a separate Apex Energy Bar, and every Energy Bar is powered by its own electrical circuit.

One heater is also connected to a separate Ranco temperature controller, providing an additional layer of protection if the Apex temperature sensor or controller fails.

The systems use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt mix.

Salinity is maintained through a custom automatic top-off system connected directly to the RO/DI unit. The sump contains a mechanical float valve and a secondary safety float connected to an electronic solenoid.

Many reef aquariums inside modern homes naturally run between approximately 7.75 and 8.2 pH. Indoor carbon dioxide is often the primary reason. Smaller homes and homes with more people or pets may experience higher indoor carbon dioxide levels and lower aquarium pH.

In aquaculture systems, increasing pH may be worthwhile when faster coral growth can justify the added equipment and operating expense.

Common approaches include carbon dioxide scrubbers, kalkwasser, exhaust fans, heat-recovery air exchangers, outside-air lines, and additional aeration.

I prefer to keep nitrate above 5 ppm. In my systems, somewhat higher nitrate levels are often beneficial to coral color and health.

Natural reefs provide corals with plankton and microfauna from the surrounding water. Closed aquarium systems typically provide fewer natural food sources, making available nutrients particularly important.

I occasionally turn off the protein skimmer, and I do not use macroalgae in a refugium, because I want to avoid removing too much nitrate from the water.