Inside Lazy's Coral House

A look at the coral systems, equipment, water parameters, lighting, and maintenance practices used at Lazy's Coral House.

🏠 Facility Overview

Eventually, I plan to create a more extensive page with photographs and additional information about Lazy's Coral House. Until then, this page provides an overview of the systems and methods I use to grow coral.

📊 Water Parameter Overview

🌡️ Temperature

Temperature is maintained using three Finnex 500-watt titanium heaters. Each heater is connected to a separate Apex Energy Bar, and each Energy Bar is powered by its own electrical circuit.

One heater is also connected to a separate Ranco temperature controller. This provides an additional layer of protection in case the Apex temperature sensor or controller fails.

🌊 Salinity

The system uses Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt mix.

Salinity is maintained through a custom automatic top-off system connected directly to the RO/DI unit. The sump contains a mechanical float valve and a secondary safety float. These are connected to an electronic solenoid that is allowed to activate every four hours for up to ten minutes. When both floats call for water, RO/DI water flows directly into the sump.

⚗️ Calcium, Alkalinity & Magnesium

Calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium are maintained using Bulk Reef Supply additives stored in 2.5-gallon dosing containers.

Dosing takes place throughout the day using BRS 1.1 mL-per-minute dosing pumps connected to the Apex controller.

Automated testing is performed by an Apex Trident. The Trident monitors the system but is not allowed to automatically change dosing amounts. Results are also verified manually using Salifert and Hanna test kits.

🧪 pH

Many reef aquariums inside modern homes naturally run between approximately 7.75 and 8.2 pH. Indoor carbon dioxide is often the primary reason. Smaller homes and homes with more people or pets may have higher indoor carbon dioxide levels, which can lower aquarium pH.

There are situations where increasing pH may be worthwhile. This can include aquaculture systems where a measurable increase in coral growth may justify the additional equipment and operating expense.

Common methods for increasing pH include carbon dioxide scrubbers, kalkwasser, exhaust fans, heat-recovery air exchangers, and drawing outside air into the skimmer or aquarium room.

🌱 Nutrients

I prefer to keep nitrate above 5 ppm, and in my systems, somewhat higher nitrate levels are often beneficial.

In a natural reef environment, corals have access to a large amount of plankton and microfauna in the water column. Closed aquarium systems usually provide fewer natural food sources, making dissolved nutrients particularly important.

I sometimes turn off the protein skimmer, and I do not use macroalgae in a refugium, because I want to avoid stripping too much nitrate from the water.

💡 Lighting

All corals at Lazy's Coral House have been grown under Ocean Revive LED fixtures since 2014. These lights are no longer produced.

Both light channels turn on at full intensity and turn off at full intensity. Keep in mind that these are shallow raceways, and many of the corals are elevated on frag racks.

The settings below represent typical averages. If nitrate becomes too low, I reduce lighting intensity until nutrient levels return to the desired range. When nitrate has remained above approximately 15 ppm, I have sometimes been able to increase intensity beyond the levels listed below.

🚿 Water Changes

Built Around Stability

Every system is different, but the goal at Lazy's Coral House is consistent: stable water chemistry, appropriate nutrients, dependable equipment, and healthy captive-grown coral.